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Traditional Thursday: Tips And Tricks

0 - Published August 22, 2013 by in Stringing, Traditional

We have received a TON of questions over the last month or so, so I’m going through them and answering them one by one. If my answer doesn’t satisfy you, follow up with me in the comments, and I will try to help you out!

I’m trying to get into using a traditional pocket before this coming up season and I was wondering if you could make a tutorial for a 6 diamond traditional stick like Collin from the Lacrosse Network. I really want to learn how to string one so can you please make a detailed tutorial, and if possible could you use a super power? Also at the end of the tutorial could you show how to maintain and how to adjust your pocket to keep it highschool legal? It would be much appreciated if you could do so! Thanks,
Cameron

I have no control over Contest Colin, but thanks to divine providence, as you requested, he delivered today. I also have a tutorial up now, and you can check it out on our YouTube channel. I didn’t use a Super Power, but a Stallion. At least it’s still STX, right? There is also a video on stick maintenance!

I was wondering if Connor Wilson could string me a traditional pocket. I’ve been watching your tutorials and trying to get better at them, but I need one soon beacause of breaking it in. Please get back to me, I would really appreciate it! – Kurt

I do have some traditional heads strung up at home that are ready to rock. I’d even consider selling them at a discount to passionate LAS fans. If I do, the heads will only be available to LAS GTG or MVP members. Yet another perk! Would people be interested in getting access to my string jobs? If so, maybe we’ll make it happen…

I have used a pita pocket for about two and a half years now, I have tried multiple heads and I find that wider heads come out better. Do you think the head shape matters when stringing a pita pocket? I use the STX X10 and the STX Super Power. – Jason

With the wide heads, you can really pull the side leathers tight, and create a superb channel. There is no doubt about that! You get the big catching surface, and tight channel. Best of both worlds! I’m a big fan of Pita pockets in wider heads, but I don’t think they are “better” than narrow heads… just different. This old proton plus has a narrow throat, but the Pita is still mint.

pita_pocket

I tried to string a pita pocket using your tutorial and I can’t get the tension right. I tried to tighten the top section of the stick but it didn’t work and the pocket is a complete bag. I tried a ball with chopsticks to tweak it but I think i messed it up even more.Please help. – Connor

pita

Hey Connor, nice name, bud! The first thing I would do would be to tighten up those side leathers. They look a little too loose to me. That should help keep the pocket lower, and from bagging out. Then I would look at the tension of the two pieces of cross lace that connect your outer leathers to the dog track. The one on the right (in the photo above) seems to be much looser than the one on the left. They should be symmetrical.

Try those two things, and send in a new photo. I hope this helps and keep practicing. You’re getting there!

Dear Lax All Stars,
I saw a Traditional Thursday video from a while back that showed the double traditional pocket, I was wondering how you set up the side wall strings for it. Because the pocket it symmetrical are the sidewalls symmetrical too? Or are they lopsided like in a normal asymmetrical traditional?
Yours Truly,
Fawad Yousufzai

Hey Fawad,

Great question! I string a four or five diamond traditional from left to right, and then the exact same pocket right to left, and that gets me the double traditional. Since I start from the left AND the right, the sidewalls should be symmetrical, as you are basically putting the same pocket in twice, and just starting from the other side. Symmetrical sidewalls are the way to go!

I want to try a six-leather traditional in an Evo 4. It has the cut-outs in the scoop for six leathers, but only has four anchor holes in the throat of the head. Do you have any tips on how to anchor the two additional leathers?

Jeffery Barber

This is ambitious, Jeffrey, and I like it! I would try running the outer leathers down to the LAST sidewall hole, then trying to pull them through with pliers. If the leathers are to thick, you could use a piece of sidewall instead of a leather. I’ve seen it done before, especially back in the day, and it works like a charm. Remember to keep the tension tight with this one, and good luck!

Morning,
Traditionally speaking, I’m a low pocket kinda fellow. I’ve strung several (but not many) straight pita pockets and all have come out with pockets that are on the high side. My observations have concluded that the strings connecting the outside leathers to the inside, function sort of like the bottom string on a mesh pocket. In other words, the tighter the strings, the less whip on the stick. Nevertheless, I can’t seem to avoid a high-pocket type of effect.

First off, thoughts on that?

Second, what are your thoughts on this idea: use different strings for the top interlocks than the lower? I theorize that this would allow a person to more selectively distribute the tension of the pocket towards a lower hold and lower whip. I have leathers and string but don’t have access to an abundance of heads. I’m curious about your thoughts and wondering if you could give this a rip. – SB

This is a great double question! Try stringing the Pita pocket very tight the next time. Keep it close to being a tennis racket, especially up top. THEN put a ball in it, securing it with a chopstick or butter knife in the lowest position possible. Tighten up the rest of the pocket (again, especially at the top) up and make sure that the ball sits at the bottom naturally. With wall ball, the pocket will move up a bit, but this should result in a lower pocket. Keeping the dog track tight will ensure that the next set of cross lace doesn’t slip through, and create that high pocket you are trying to avoid. After playing wall ball, put the ball and chopstick back in, and spritz water on the leathers. Don’t soak them, just moisten them. Repeat.

As for point 2, I just might try this! However, it is my belief that knots are more important than string type, as they lock down more securely, when done right. I would focus on using different, more locked in KNOTS higher up to retain tension, instead of different types of lace. GREAT question, SB!

I’m a mesh guy but I’m trying out a pita pocket what do you recommend for maintenance? I need some tips to keep it in great shape. Thanks! – Jack

I am a big believer in the methodology I laid out above. Wall ball, tightening up the cross lace as it loosens, and water moistening the leathers (to help the strings set and cinch) with a ball and butter knife in there. I also love putting baby oil on the leathers, as this keeps them soft, and somewhat water resistant. Once you have done the above for a while, the pocket will begin to settle in, and then maintenance time reduces rapidly. The question is, can you put in the time to make your pocket break in perfectly. It’s simple, and just takes patience, dedication, and time!

To kill whip or excess bagging, you can try tightening the side leathers a bit. If it’s still whipping, tighten the middle leathers just a little.

If THAT doesn’t work, head over to the Community and stop by the Stick Doctors Lounge. That way, you’ll get my help, as well as all the other knowledgable stick doctors out there!

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